TIPS & ADVICE

A FEW RED FLAGS TO LOOK FOR WHEN CHOOSING A BREEDER...

1. Did you know that puppies should be picked up from the breeder at 8 weeks and no earlier? Puppies need that extra week or two to learn crucial life lessons from their mother and litter mates before they are welcomed into your home. A good breeder will never give a puppy to you before 8 weeks.

2. NEVER meet the breeder anywhere other than the place where the puppies were raised with the mother. If a breeder wants to meet at a midway point or anywhere other than where the puppies were raised, they are very likely a "puppy mill" or at best a "backyard breeder" and you might be purchasing a dog with serious physical and/or psychological issues. Reputable breeders are meticulous about how they raise their puppies in the first 8 weeks and spend copious amounts of money and time invested in the process. They are open about their process and should be able to provide physical proof of medical records of the mom, dad, and puppy upon request (which you should always ask for).

WHEN SHOULD I SOCIALIZE MY PUPPY?

DISCLAIMER: There are many schools of thought on this. At the end of the day YOU are responsible for your puppy and should make sure you are educated in all schools of thought before you come to a decision regarding your puppy's wellbeing. No one is responsible for your puppy but you! (The following are suggestions expressed by Haley Scott as a professional trainer. She can not be held liable for any illnesses contracted, injury or death.)

My opinion is this...You've all heard it, "Wait for all the rounds of shots or your puppy will die!". It's possible, depending on how you do it. However, as a trainer who specializes in puppy socialization I strongly advise all puppy parents to socialize your puppy with as many people and vaccinated, dog friendly dogs (or puppies who are the same age) as possible as soon as you get them! The socialization window usually starts to close somewhere around 16 weeks and is a hard close around 20 weeks... too late for socialization if you wait until after they recieve their full round of shots. I personally decided it was best for me and my dog to socialize safely before the window closed using age appropriate puppy socials and visiting as many friend's homes as possible (and having them visit us) instead of fearing lifelong behavioral problems such as aggression. Unfortunately I have seen too many puppies suffer the severe consequences of undersocialization.

Some Safety Tips

Be familiar with the symptoms of parvo, distemper, leptospirosis and kennel cough (kennel cough is similar to a cold but is contagious to other pups and should be treated quickly). Immediately contact your vet if you suspect any of these illnesses as some are life threatening.

Use common sense... do not take your puppy to swampy areas or lakes with standing water (breeding ground for potentially parvo in mosquitos), places where there are rotting carcasses in the area or wild animals and their feces/urine or the ocean (leptospirosis), or where other unvaccinated dogs might have congregated heavily and peed (like grassy areas or tanbark outside stores). NO DOG PARKS.

Safer options for socialization

Friend's houses, age appropriate puppy socials, dogs who are up to date on vaccinations, indoor malls (bring puppy pads for pee breaks and/or enzyme/odor eliminating floor/carpet cleanser and paper towels to be a responsible puppy owner and clean any messes they make in the store.), etc. are all safer options.

Pro Tip: Feed your puppy buffered vitamin C powder. This will help their immune system just like us! the rule of thumb is to start with just 1/8 tsp and go up a little more each day until the puppy gets "loose stool" then go back to the lower dose of the previous day. For example... My dog has firm stool at 1/8tsp but loose or runny at 1/4tsp. I will then know that the correct amount for my dog to injest is 1/8tsp.

SHOULD I GET LESSONS FOR CONDITIONING MY DOG TO BEING AROUND A BABY?

YES!...yes! yes! YES!

I have heard too many devastating stories of wonderful, sweet dogs who have to be rehomed because they could not cope with being demoted in the pack order, the stroller, crying, unpredictable energy of a baby, etc. In many cases this is all preventable. Get a lesson or two with a trainer who can help you assess and prepare your family and dog for the new family member.

1. Don't assume that if your dog is uncomfortable around kids, that they will get use to YOUR kid because they will be around them all the time. WRONG. Many dog's have been put to sleep because owner's did not understand the dog's temperment and trusted a dog who was uncomfortable around an exhuberant or unpredictable baby/child. There are dog's who do not like children or feel very uncomfortable around them. You should always consult with a trainer who understands dog body language about assessing your dog around children preferably before you decide to have one. If you are pregnant or already have children or a baby consult a trainer as quickly as possible to ensure the safety and happiness of your furry and non-furry kids!

2. If you are pregnant, consult with a trainer as early in the pregnancy as possible to give you time to prepare you and your dog without the added stress and exhaustion accompanied by your new family member.

3. Pro Tip: Start playing baby noises on your phone around the house and treat your dog as the crying and screaming recording plays over the speaker.